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FUKUI AND EIHEI-JI |
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Some 75km south of Kanazawa is FUKUI , the modern capital of Fukui-ken,
rebuilt after World War II and a severe earthquake in 1948 left the old
city in a heap of rubble. There's little reason to linger here when
Eihei-ji , the serene "temple of eternal peace" and headquarters of the
Soto sect of Zen Buddhism, awaits on a mountainside surrounded by
forests, 19km northeast of Fukui.
The main approach to Eihei-ji is lined with the usual tacky souvenir
shops, but at the top of the hill the temple complex of over seventy
buildings blends seamlessly with the trees. Eihei-ji is one of the few
ancient temples in Japan where a community is visibly functioning,
breathing life into what would otherwise be an attractive but sterile
place. Touring around the main seven buildings of the complex, all
connected by covered wooden walkways, you'll pass many shaven-headed
monks busily going about their daily chores and religious duties.
Eihei-ji is closed on several dates throughout the year for special
services, so it's wise to check first with Fukui City Sightseeing
Information or with the temple (tel 0776/63-3631, fax 63-3640) before
setting off. The best way to experience the temple is as a sanrosha , or
religious trainee, and to stay the night. Enquiries should be made at
least two weeks (preferably a month) in advance to see if the dates you
would like to stay are available - if they are, you'll be sent an
application form.
Overnight visits begin around 3pm, with a bath to cleanse your body in
preparation for the instruction. At 5pm a meal of simple vegetarian food
is served, after which you'll take part in your first zazen meditation
session, lasting around thirty minutes. Next comes a video about life in
the temple and then bedtime at 9pm. This might seem rather early, but
you'll be up at 3.10am for a second zazen session before the morning
service at 5am, followed by a tour of the temple complex. At 8.30am,
after a breakfast of rice gruel and pickles, you're free to leave.
One night at Eihei-ji costs ¥8000, while for ¥1000 extra you can take
part in the three-night/four-day programme, which follows more closely
the rigorous daily routine of the monks. If this sounds all too much,
there's a nearby youth hostel , Eihei-ji Monzen Yamaguchi-so (tel
0776/63-3123; under ¥3000), where the food is slightly more luxurious,
even if the accommodation is quite basic, in large tatami rooms.
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