|
| |
|
MIYANOSHITA |
| |
|
|
| |
Rising up into the mountains, the Hakone-Tozan switchback railway
zigzags for nearly 9km alongside a ravine from Hakone-Yumoto to the
village of Gora. There are small traditional inns and temples at several
of the stations along the way, but the single best place to alight - and
even stay overnight - is the village onsen resort of MIYANOSHITA . As
well as hot springs, the village has decent antique shops along its main
road, and several hiking routes up 804-metre Mount Sengen on the eastern
flank of the railway - one path begins just beside the station. At the
top, you'll get a great view of the gorge below.
Miyanoshita's real draw is its handful of splendid hotels . The Naraya
Inn (tel 0460/2-2411, fax 7-6231; ¥20,000-30,000), is a fabulous
traditional ryokan founded in the sixteenth century, and hardly looks as
if it has changed since. Guests sleep in mini-villas and there are
several onsen baths dotted around the compound, which includes expansive
of gardens. Also worth popping in - if only to peek at the handsome
wooden interior - is the Fujiya Hotel (tel 0460/2-2211, fax 2-2210;
¥15,000-30,000), which opened for business in 1878 and is a living
monument to a more glamorous era of travel. Despite being the first
Western-style hotel in Japan, the Fujiya has lots of Japanese touches,
including traditional gardens and temple-like decorative gables. The
plush, 1950s-style decor is retro-chic and the rooms are good value,
especially from Sunday to Friday, when foreign guests qualify for a
cheaper rate. There's also the delightful, European-style Motonamikan (formerly
Pension Yamaguchi ; tel 0460/2-3158; ¥15,000-20,000), roughly a five-minute
walk downhill from the train station, and tucked away off the main road
behind the post office - the rates here include meals.
As far as eating goes, the Fujiya 's Orchid Lounge is great for
afternoon tea, while its ornate French restaurant is an excellent, if
pricey, choice for lunch or dinner. The Picot Bakery on the main road
outside the Fujiya is a good place to pick up bread and cakes for
breakfast or lunch.
|
| |
|
