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MUTSU

 
 
 
A workaday town on the southern edge of Shimokita Tono, MUTSU is the main base for Osore-zan. The easiest access route is a JR train from Noheji, on the main Tohoku line, to Shimokita Station in Mutsu's southern suburbs. To reach the centre, either take a taxi (around ¥1000) or change to the private Shimokita-kotsu Ohata line to Tanabu Station, two stops up the line (7min; ¥200), on the east side of Mutsu town centre.

Mutsu's information desk (daily 10am-6pm; 0175/22-0909) is in the ground-floor lobby of Masakari Plaza, a modern pink building immediately northwest of Tanabu Station. Staff can provide English-language maps and bus timetables and will help with accommodation, though they don't speak English. You can catch local buses for Osore-zan and Wakinosawa outside the station: this latter route is served by blue-and-white JR buses, for which rail passes are valid.

One of the nicest places to stay in Mutsu is the new Murai Ryokan (0175/22-4755, fax 23-4572; ¥7000-15,000), just in front of Masakari Plaza. None of the tatami rooms is en suite, but everything's spanking clean and the food is excellent value, though they do offer rooms without meals. A good alternative is the Hotel New Green (0175/22-6121, fax 22-5180; ¥7000-15,000), with a choice of Western- or Japanese-style rooms about five minutes' walk from the station; follow the road straight ahead (west) from the station, then left at the T-junction.

Though it's the smartest restaurant in town, prices at Nanko (daily 11.30am-9.30pm), located down the side street on the left just before the Hotel New Green , are surprisingly affordable. The best deals are their teishoku (from ¥1100), but you can also choose from a picture menu of seafood, steaks and stews for around ¥2000 per head. Alternatively, the second-floor restaurant in the Masakari Plaza (daily 11.30am-8pm) serves a decent range of mostly Western-style meals for under ¥1000.
 
 
 
 

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