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NARAI |
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The 34th post town on the Nakasendo, attractive NARAI , 30km
southwest of Matsumoto, was the most prosperous of the eleven juku along
the Kisoji. The village's distinctive wooden buildings, with window
shutters and renji-goshi lattice work, have been beautifully preserved -
Narai's only drawback are the cars that pass through the main street,
making it hard to forget what century you're in.
The main road of restored houses and shops stretches for around 1km
south from the train station at the north end of the village. Look out
for the shop selling kasira ningyo , colourfully painted, traditional
dolls and toys made of wood. About halfway down the road stands Nakamura
House (daily 9am-4.30pm; ¥200), dating from the 1830s and once the home
of a merchant who made his fortune in combs, one of the area's
specialities. Side streets lead off to pretty temples and shrines in the
foothills and, on the other side, to the rocky banks of the Narai-gawa
crossed by the Kiso-no-Ohashi, an arched wooden bridge.
Narai is a 45-minute train journey from Matsumoto along the Chuo line. A
lovely place to stay is Iseya (tel 0264/34-3051; ¥15,000-20,000), a
minshuku in a traditional house along the main street, with an
ornamental garden - rates include two meals. Dotted along the main
street are several cafés with soaring wooden-beamed ceilings and irori ,
central charcoal fires, serving soba noodles and other local dishes.
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