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NOBORIBETSU ONSEN |
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Some 18km east of Toya-ko and nestling amid lush green mountain
slopes, ripped through by a bubbling wasteland of volcanic activity,
lies NOBORIBETSU ONSEN . Although this small, purpose-built resort is
Hokkaido's top hot-spring destination (and has huge, unsightly hotels to
prove it), the dramatic landscape of Jigokudani - the source of
Noboribetsu's fame - is less touristy than a similar area in Beppu in
Kyushu , and is definitely worth seeing. Afterwards, don't miss out on a
wallow in the luxurious baths of the Dai-ichi Takamoto-kan.
A ten-minute walk from the bus stop up Gokuraku, Noboribetsu's main
street, will bring you to a roadside shrine guarded by two brightly
painted statues of demons. This is the entrance to Jigokudani (Hell
Valley) a steaming, lunar-like valley that is the result of an ancient
volcanic eruption, and from where ten thousand tonnes of water are
pumped out daily. It takes about thirty minutes to explore the area,
wandering along wooden pathways through a landscape of rusty red rocks,
streaked green and white by mineral deposits. Close to the start of the
valley walkway you'll notice a tiny wooden shrine where you can sip a
cup of the onsen water, which tastes a bit like diluted vinegar. Twenty
minutes' walk further on, a well-signposted pathway leads to Oyu-numa ,
a malevolent-looking hot-water lake which looks exactly what you'd
expect to find in somewhere called "hell".
All of the hotels draw water from Jigokudani and many have built
elaborate baths so that guests and visitors can enjoy the water's
therapeutic benefits. The nicest baths open to the public are at the
back of the Dai-ichi Takamoto-kan (daily 9am-3pm; ¥2000), with 29
different kinds of tubs, including several Jacuzzis, a rotemburo
(outdoor pool), a cypress-wood bath and a swimming pool with a water
slide (you'll need to take a bathing costume with you to use this, or
rent one on the premises). The main onsen bath hall, supported by Roman
pillars, has a sweeping view across Jigokudani.
You're unlikely to be tempted by Noboribetsu's other main attraction, a
deplorable Bear Park (daily: Dec-March 9am-4.30pm; April-Nov, longer
hours; entrance & cable car ¥2520) on the summit of Kuma-yama, the
mountain that rises over the resort. Even if you find performing animals
entertaining, the sight of scores of fully grown bears begging for
snacks in spartan concrete bunkers is upsetting. The only pleasure to be
had here is the panoramic view of the surrounding mountains you'll get
from the cable car, which runs up to the park from the resort.
Returning from the onsen to Noboribetsu Station, the incongruous grey
turrets of the red-brick Sea Fantasy Castle Nixe loom into view. This is
the main attraction of Marine Park Nixe (daily 9am-8pm; ¥2300), a kitsch
medley of a Hans Christian Andersen-style amusement park, multi-storey
aquarium and sea-lion and dolphin shows.
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