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TAKAMATSU |
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On the northern coast of Shikoku, breezily cosmopolitan TAKAMATSU ,
the capital city of Kagawa-ken , is likely to be your first stop on
Shikoku. Even before the Seto Ohashi connected Shikoku's rail network
with that on Honshu, the city's port was a major gateway into the island.
Warlord Chikamasa Ikoma built his castle here in 1588, but the city and
surrounding area's history goes back a long way before that. The priest
and mystic Kobo Daishi was born in the prefecture, the banished Emperor
Sutoku was murdered here in 1164 and, 21 years later, the Taira and
Minamoto clans clashed at nearby Yashima . In air raids during World War
II, Chikamasa's castle was virtually destroyed, along with most of the
city.
Today, Takamatsu is a sprawling, yet fairly attractive modern city of
350,000 inhabitants, peppered with covered shopping arcades and designer
stores. At the time of research the first stage of the Sunport
development, in a prime position facing the Inland Sea, was well
underway. This will include new JR and Kotoden train stations,
convention and shopping centres, and a luxury hotel and seaside
promenade, complete with beach. It's also planned to move the ferry
wharves here.
As 21st-century as all this is, the city's star attraction remains
Ritsurin-koen , one of Japan's most classical, spacious and beautifully
designed gardens. The gardens are easily accessible on a day-trip from
Honshu, but it's well worth staying overnight so you can also take in
Shikoku Mura , the open-air museum of traditional houses at Yashima, or
Kotohira-gu , the ancient shrine less than one hour by train west of the
city. And, if you're on your way to Kotohira, consider visiting nearby
Zentso-ji , the atmospheric temple at the birthplace of Kobo Daishi.
Takamatsu is also a gateway to two of the most appealing islands in the
Inland Sea: Shodo-shima , a mini-Shikoku with its own temple circuit and
scenic attractions; and Nao-shima , home of the imaginative Benesse
Island cultural village and contemporary art museum, designed by Ando
Tadao.
The City
Takamatsu's must-see, Ritsurin-koen , is 2km south down Chuo-dori from
the JR station, but on the way are several sights worth a stop. Just
beside the Kotoden Chikko Station, opposite the JR station, is
Tamamo-koen (daily 9am-5pm; ¥150), a park which contains what's left of
the castle Takamatsu-jo . Four hundred years ago this was one of the
three major Japanese fortresses protected by sea, with three rings of
moats surrounding the central keep. All that remains today are a couple
of turrets and parts of the moat, and the grounds are only a ninth of
their original size. Still, it's a pleasant enough park, with winding
pathways and a fantastic display of blossom on the cherry trees in
spring. If you climb the raised mound of the keep, you'll get a great
view out across the Inland Sea. At the east end of the park, also have a
look around the very traditional Hiunkaku , a sprawling wooden mansion,
surrounded by stunted pines. Rebuilt in 1917, it is now used as public
rooms.
Immediately east of the park is the new Kagawa History Museum (Tues-Sun
9.30am-5pm; ¥400) built on part of the old castle grounds. Head to the
fourth floor to see the main exhibition which has a lot of high-tech
displays, including a mobile phone device you can use to get an English
(or Korean or Chinese) explanation of what you're seeing. To make the
device work, press the green dial button, wait for the dial tone to
finish and for the Japanese announcement, and then punch in the code
marked up at the display you're in front of. It's all quite fun, with
some impressive relics and life-size replicas of local landmarks, such
as the seven-metre-tall copper lantern from Marogame. On the third floor
is a special section relating to Kobo Daishi , with some amazing giant
mandala paintings and ancient statues, as well as the temporary
exhibition space. Next to the ground-floor library is a hands-on
section, where, should you wish, you can dress up in old Japanese
costumes and have your photo taken. The giftshop also sells good
souvenirs.
South of the park, heading down Chuo-dori, are the main commercial and
entertainment districts, threaded through with covered shopping arcades
( shotengai ) - one of which is said to be the longest (at 2.7km) in
Japan. Just off Chuo-dori on Bijutsukan-dori is the modern Takamatsu
City Museum of Art (Tues-Sun 9am-6pm; ¥200). The small permanent
collection includes Sanuki lacquerware and Western and Japanese
contemporary art. There's also a library of art books and videos - some
in English - and the spacious entrance hall is also used for dance and
music performances. A fifteen-minute walk further down Chuo-dori is the
main entrance to the gardens of Ritsurin-koen.
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