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UTORO

 
 
 
In UTORO , there's the Yuhi-no-Ataru Ie (tel 01522/4-2764, fax 4-2863; ¥10,000-15,000), which is expensive in summer but much cheaper off season. It's a fifteen-minute hike up the second road off to the right after the bus station - take the pedestrian pathway and walk straight ahead until you see a building with a painting of a white-tailed eagle on it. The rooms are pretty good, but it's not as handy a base for hikes as Iwaobetsu . Next door is the Shiretoko Yaei-jo , a well-maintained campsite which costs ¥320 per person per night. At the other end of the scale, the opulent Shiretoko Grand Hotel (tel 01522/4-2021, fax 4-2839; ¥20,000-30,000) has both Western- and Japanese-style rooms and a rooftop onsen bath and rotemburo with views across the harbour.

Utoro has a reasonable selection of restaurants : try Ikkyuya , just north of the bus station, where large bowls of ramen noodles shouldn't cost you more than ¥700. Also worth searching out is Shiokaze , a small restaurant where a set lunch of grilled fish, soup, rice and pickles costs ¥800; you'll find it on the hill above the bus station, five minutes' walk east of the campsite.
 
 
 
 

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